Mount Vinson is located in the Sentinel Range of the Ellsworth Mountains in Antarctica. At 16,050 feet (4,892 meters), it is the highest peak on the continent. The first ascent of the mountain was in 1966, but it did not become more accessible to climbers until relatively recently.
The standard route up Mount Vinson is essentially the only route used. It involves establishing a series of camps along the way to aid in acclimatization. Below is a typical Mount Vinson itinerary:
- Day 1-2: Travel to Punta Arenas, Chile
- Day 3: Preparation in Punta Arenas
- Day 4: Flight to Antarctica
- Day 5: Arrive at Vinson Base Camp
- Day 6: Acclimatization at Base Camp
- Day 7: Move to Low Camp
- Day 8: Acclimatization at Low Camp
- Day 9: Move to High Camp
- Day 10: Acclimatization at High Camp
- Day 11: Summit day! Climb from High Camp to summit and back to High Camp
- Day 12: Descend from High Camp to Vinson Base Camp
- Day 13: Fly back to Union Glacier camp
- Day 14: Return to Punta Arenas, Chile
The Best Time to Climb Mount Vinson
The only time Mount Vinson can be climbed is from late November to early January during the Antarctic summer. Temperatures range from -4°F to -22°F (-20°C to -30°C) during this time. Early in the season, temperatures can dip as low as -94°F (-70°C).
It’s important to be prepared for extreme cold, high winds, and storms. Pack plenty of insulating layers and make sure your equipment is rated for polar conditions.
Difficulty and Training
Mount Vinson is considered an extremely challenging climb. You need to be very physically fit and have prior mountaineering experience in order to attempt it.
Specifically, you should have experience climbing and camping in cold weather, using ropes, ice axes, and crampons. Previous experience on high peaks like Denali is highly recommended.
Training should focus on building endurance, strength, and cardio fitness. Expect to carry 50+ pound packs up and down thousands of feet in elevation each day. Core and leg strength are especially important. Prioritize stair climbing, hill training, weightlifting, and high intensity cardio.
It’s essential to train for at least 4 months in advance, ideally longer. Slowly build up your mileage and elevation gains week-to-week. Rest and recovery is also key to avoiding injury or burnout.
Acclimatization
Acclimatizing to the high elevations on Mount Vinson is critical. Altitude sickness is a major risk, especially above 14,000 feet.
Taking your time when ascending allows your body to adjust to the lower oxygen levels. This is why multiple camps are established along the route. Spend a couple days at each one before moving higher.
Stay very well hydrated by drinking 3+ liters of fluids per day. Avoid alcohol or medications that can exacerbate altitude sickness symptoms. Descend immediately if you start to feel unwell.
Preventatively, you can ask your doctor about prescription medications like Diamox. But increased time at elevation is the best remedy.
Gear List
Having the proper cold weather clothing and mountaineering gear is mandatory on Mount Vinson. Double check all your equipment before departing. Key items include:
- Mountaineering boots rated to -40°F (-40°C) or colder
- 8000 meter down parka and pants
- Expedition sleeping bag rated to -40°F
- Insulated boots, gloves, hat, goggles, and layers
- Climbing harness, helmet, crampons, ice axe
- Backpack, tents, stoves provided by tour operator
- Lightweight accessories: sunglasses, headlamp, knife, cup, toiletries
Leave behind any extra weight like jeans, cotton shirts, or unnecessary electronics. Be prepared for complete self-sufficiency in the extreme cold.
Permits and Cost
No permits are required to climb Mount Vinson, but you must go with an experienced guide or tour operator. They arrange all the difficult logistics of travel to Antarctica and support on the mountain.
Expect to pay around $45,000 per person for a guided Mount Vinson expedition. This includes airfare to/from South America, flights to Antarctica, guide services, food, tents, group gear, and pickup/dropping at Union Glacier base camp.
Additional costs may include equipment purchases or rentals, hotels, and meals off the mountain. It’s a very expensive endeavor overall.
Frequently Asked Questions
Here are answers to some common questions about climbing Mount Vinson:
Is it dangerous?
Yes, Mount Vinson is an extremely dangerous and inhospitable environment. The weather can change rapidly and storms with high winds are frequent. Temperatures reach -40°F and below. Frostbite and hypothermia are serious risks. There is also the threat of hidden crevasses. You must be prepared for self-rescue if needed.
Do I need a guide?
It is highly recommended to go with a guided expedition, especially if it’s your first time in Antarctica. Trying to arrange transportation and supplies alone would be extremely difficult. Guides also provide instruction, safety, and leadership.
How long does it take?
The climb itself takes around 7-10 days roundtrip from Vinson Base Camp. Add in a few more days on each end for flights, gear prep, acclimating at lower camps, etc. Total time spent in Antarctica will be 2-3 weeks.
How should I train?
Take training very seriously over a period of 4+ months. Focus on building strength, endurance, and cardio fitness through stair climbing, hill training, and heavy backpack hikes. Include weightlifting and high intensity intervals. Progress mileage and elevation gain slowly each week.
In summary, climbing Mount Vinson requires extensive prior mountaineering experience, a major commitment to training, and a high tolerance for extreme cold and hardship. It’s a difficult but incredibly rewarding undertaking. Make sure to do thorough research and preparation before embarking on this polar challenge.
Creative Commons photo by Christopher Michel
